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In Part I of this tech article, which ran in August 2006, we brought you information about our great conversion for your 1958-1964 cars. As we stated, this conversion can be done on cars with small blocks or big blocks. Cars with air conditioning can be converted also. It uses GM's "605" steering box, which has the right features. The 605 steering boxes were used on mid-sized GM cars in the mid to late 1970's and throughout most of the 1980's. (Recall Step 17, in Part I, for more information.)
As discussed, the basic conversion requires a bracket for mounting the 605 to the frame. Our bracket, cast out of a high-strength alloy (Al-Mg 535), is one of the best you can find because it mounts the bracket to the 605 using the original threaded holes of the 605. Our bracket kit (PIN 553005) allows you to bolt-on a late model steering box and comes with the mounting hardware required to install the 605 box.
This conversion requires that the car has the standard steering linkage between the wheels. Specifically, it must have a standard steering arm, drag link, and idler arm.
Time Frame: 4.5 Hours
The following is what you need if you have AC: a water double (GM tracks 1 and 2) which is our PIN 563652 and a harmonic balancer double (GM tracks 1 and 2) which is our PIN 563650. You will also need another harmonic (GM track 3) which is our PIN 564207 (Photos 21-23). The steering uses GM's track 3, and the belt goes around the harmonic balancer and the steering. The only still available for the is a double (GM's tracks 2 and 3) which is PIN 553071. (Photo 22)
The following is what you need if you do not have AC: a water single (GM track 1) which is PIN 563943 and a harmonic balancer double (GM tracks 1 2) which is PN 563650. The first track belt goes around the water crank and alternator or generator (Photos 21-23). The steering uses GM's track 2, and the belt goes around the harmonic balancer and the steering. The only still available for the is a double (GM's tracks 2 and 3) which is PIN 553071 (Photo 22)
Install the correct or at the harmonic balancer. Secure with the three 3/8-24 x 1" bolts and lock washers. The crank bolts should be tightened to 45 foot-pounds.
Install the on the steering. Make sure that the Woodruff key is on the shaft before installing the. Check the alignment of the with respect to each other. The tracks need to be lined up. Select the belt that you will use. The length of this belt is critical. The amount of adjustment is minimal. The belt has to be long enough to be installed, but not so long that it is impossible to tighten. (I used a flat-blade screwdriver to "pry" the belt into This belt will be installed later.
There are two 605 boxes, one has flare-type hose fittings and one has O-ring fittings. The flare-type boxes were used in the early years and the O-ring style in the later years. The flare style will have the brass seats and the O-ring will not have the seats. The 605 boxes in our kits are the O-ring type (Photos 26 27). All of the 605 boxes will have "605" cast (5/16" high numbers) in the housing (Photo 28). If you are looking for such a box at a junkyard, the "605" will be visible as you look over the fender down on the box.
Just before starting the installation of the 605, use a 7/16-14 tap to clean the threads of the three mounting holes in the 605 box (Photo 29). Use a medium-strength Loctite on the three black socket-head bolts, which will secure the box to the special Al-Mg 535 bracket (Photo 30). Position the bracket onto the 605 box and start each of the three socket-head bolts (Photos 31 32).
There are 3.5 turns from lock-to-lock on these boxes. While the upper shaft with a rag, use a pair of vise grips to the sector shaft at the midway. To make sure that the 605 box is halfway, turn the upper shaft until the sector shaft is either at the end of the "right turn" or "left turn," then turn the shaft in the opposite direction 1 turn. The sector shaft has four flat areas on the splined end (see arrow in Photo 33). At the midway, one of those flat areas will be toward the front of the car when the box is on the frame.
Now the box bracket assembly can be bolted to the frame. The three 3/8-16 x 3 " bolts, in the bracket kit, will be installed in the original holes in the frame.
Each of the bolts should have a flat washer and lock washer in as you begin to secure the box bracket. These bolts will be screwed into the Al-Mg bracket. As you secure the box bracket assembly, the arm onto the sector shaft. (At this time the arm does not have to be completely installed onto the sector shaft.) Leave each of the bolts loose until all three are started into the bracket. You may have to wiggle the box bracket assembly a little to get all three bolts started. Tighten these mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds of torque.
Line up the matching flat areas of the sector shaft and arm. Install and tighten the large lock washer and nut, which secures the arm.
At this time, the belts will be installed. The showing the tightening of the steering belt does not show the alternator belt or the NC belt, but these do need to be "installed" before the steering belt is installed. Hang the belts over the harmonic balancer and the water; these will be installed later. The reason for doing it this way is that tightening the steering belt is easier without the fan and water in. Notice in Photo 37 the bolt, flat washer, and lock washer, which will tighten the steering belt. Position the steering belt. Use the shortest belt that you can over the. There is very little space for tightening the belt. Be careful where you to tighten the belt. Use a large flat-blade screwdriver as shown in Photo 38 to tighten the steering belt. Use a 9/16" wrench or socket to tighten the upper bolt on the rear of the steering. At this time, tighten the lower rear nut and the lower front bolt on the steering. Make sure that the does not come in contact with the 605 box and that all of the line up.
Install the fan and the correct water with four 5/16-24 x 3/4" bolts and lock washers. The water bolts should be tightened to 20 foot-pounds of torque. Make sure to check the alignment of the with respect to each other. The tracks need to be lined up.
The intermediate steering shaft must be shortened. You can measure for your own application. I have found that if the shaft is shortened to 19", it works very well. The length is an overall length, end-to-end.
(I have heard from a few installers that some cars require shafts that were as short as 18.5" and as long as 19.5".) If you choose to use a shortened original intermediate shaft, have the shaft shortened by a good machine shop. This is not something you just cut and weld: remember this is a steering shaft. A much better idea is to use the new shaft in our kits or order PIN 553030.
Install the new Borgeson coupler onto the 605 box, but do not tighten the set screw at this time. Position the new shaft along the side of the lower (Borgeson) and upper (original) couplers. Determine how much of the splined ends need to be removed for a no-bind fit. If the splined end into the center of the coupler it will inhibit the swivel action of the coupler. For this installation, it was necessary to cut about 1" from each end. This is best accomplished with a cutoff wheel. File or grind the raw cuts for a smoother installation. Step 26. Install the splined shaft into the upper (original) coupler and slide it up far enough so that the shaft can slip down into the lower (Borgeson) coupler on the box (Refer to Step 3, in Part I, August 2006). Position the shaft and the couplers so that neither is hitting the steering box nor binding. Mark the upper splined area on the shaft for the upper bolt groove (Photo 41a). Remove the shaft and grind a notch at the marked area on the shaft. This will allow the upper clamp bolt to be installed. Install the shaft again along with the original upper coupler assembly with the clamp. Tighten the set screws and locking nuts on the Borgeson coupler (Photo 41b). Tighten the upper coupler bolt and nut. (Photo 41c)
Make sure one last time that you have the correct hoses for the 605 box (Refer to Step 17). Connect the return hose to the 605 box (Photo 42). The correct hole will be the closest to the frame. Do not tighten at this time. Connect the line to the 605 box. The correct hole will be the closest to the engine (Photo 43). Tighten the line so that it is not in contact with anything, specifically the engine or A-arm. Tighten the return line so that it lines up with the line. Make sure that this hose does not come in contact with anything, specifically the engine, A-arm, or steering shaft. Tighten both of the hoses at the back of the.
If applicable, the AC belt (GM track 2) and tighten. Install the alternator or generator. Position the alternator or generator belt (GM track 1) and tighten. Check all clearances and alignment of the tracks. Fill the with steering fluid. Cycle the steering wheel from side-to-side two to four times to the system. Refill the and repeat the cycling. Check the fluid one more time.
I suggest that you check all of the bolts, nuts, and fittings one last time. Make sure that they are tight and that all clearances are maintained. Have someone cycle the steering wheel from side-to-side while you watch the 605 box. Make sure that the box and bracket are tight and that there is no or flexing going on as the box is cycled. Carefully test your new steering system. I also suggest that the front end be aligned. The alignment specs are: Caster is 2.5-3.5 degrees, Camber is 0.5 degrees, and Toe-in is 0.1875-0.500". You should now have a great late-model steering system in your Late Great!