Even headlights aren't off limits when it comes to customizing a car. You can buy the old 7" replacement sealed beam headlight from any automotive supplier as they are used on anything from a Tri-Five Chevy to a two-ton dump truck. The original type sealed beam headlight has just 50 watts on low beam and 60 watts on high beam with a life expectancy of just over 300 hours. The H-4 halogen bulbs used in the new Tri-Bar headlights have 60 watts on low beam and 61watts on high beam with a life expectancy of 800 hours. The Tri-Bar halogen lightbulbs not only have a higher wattage tor better road visibility; they look great as well. The new Tri-Bar halogenheadlights plug into the stock headlight harness and with just a small modification the headlight sub bucket will fit the early model Chevys with no problem.

Parts List
7" Tri-bar H4 Headlight with Blue Dot
7" Tri-bar H4 Headlight with Clear Dot
1955-57 Black Dot Tri-Bar H-4 Halogen Headlights
1955-57 Red Dot Tri-Bar H-4 Halogen Headlights
1955-57 Crystal H-4 Halogen Headlights

Tools Needed:
Stright Screwdriver
Pliers or Vice Grips
Cut-Off Wheel

Time Frame
2 Hours

Image #1: The sealed beam type headlight, boring!

Image #2: To change the headlight, first the headlight bezel must be removed. The 1955 headlight bezel is held to the headlight bucket with two #6 counter sunk sheet metal screws located at 6:00 and 12:00 o' clock.

Image #3: There is a stainless steel trim ring that surrounds the headlight bulb that holds the bulb in place. On a 1955 there are three screws that hold the trim ring to the headlight sub bucket. This assembly is then secured to the bucket with the adjusters and spring. On the 1956 and 1957 cars, the headlight trim ringsnaps over the sub bucket and is held in place with one spring attached to the headlight bucket.

Image #4: To remove the headlight bulb, ring and sub bucket assembly, simply pull forward on the retaining spring that is hooked into the stainless ring and disengage the ring from the adjuster screws. If your retaining spring is hooked directly to the sub bucket, remove the three screws and the headlight bulb can be removed from the sub bucket.

Image #5: The Tri-BarH-4 halogen headlights are available with a clear, black, red or blue center dot. We are installing the PIN 28-67 headlights with the black dot. These will really give the front of our 1955 a super custom look versus the replacement sealed beam light bulbs. You can choose the color dot that you think will best complement your paint scheme.

Image #6: The body of the Tri-Bar headlight is made of high impact plastic and the H-4 halogen light bulb is replaceable from the rear. The rear of the Tri-Bar headlight bulb, where the wiring harness connects, is larger than a sealed beam headlight. The headlight sub bucket will need to be trimmed for the Tri-Bar headlight.

Image #7: The hole in the rear of the sub bucket measures 2-1/2". In order for the new Tri-Bar bulb to fit, it will need to be enlarged to 3-1/2". Using a cut-off wheel or jig saw, trim the rear lip of the sub bucket. Now the Tri-Bar headlight will fit the sub bucket perfectly.

Image #8: Install the sub bucket back into the headlight assembly and install the headlight and trim ring. The Tri-Bar halogen bulb will plug into the stock wiring harness. The headlight is marked "TOP", so when the headlight is installed the "TOP" mark should be at 12:00 o'clock. If you did not disturb the headlight adjuster screws, you shou ld not need to adjust the headlights. If your lights were out of adjustment, be sure to adjust them (at night using your garage door as a target works well) as needed.

Image #9: Last, install the headlight bezel. There is no comparison between the new Tri-Bar headlights and the replacement sealed beam headlights. The Tri-Bar headlights really give the front end of the car a custom look and will he lp you see better when driving at night!