The cowl weatherstripping, or hood-to-cowl seal, fits across the top of the firewall and seals out dust, dirt and water from the engine compartment. The 1955-1958 cowl weatherstripping is held to the cowl with clips or screws. The 1959-1967 cowl weatherstripping is slid onto the front lip of the cowl ventilator. In this tech article we will install the cowl weatherstripping on a 1955.

Parts List
1955 Hood-To-Cowl Weatherstrip Kit
1956 Hood-To-Cowl Weatherstrip Kit
1957 Hood-To-Cowl Weatherstrip Kit
1958-60 Hood To Cowl Weatherstrip
1958 Cowl Weatherstrip Clips
1961-62 Hood To Cowl Weatherstrip
1963-64 Hood To Cowl Weatherstrip
1965-67 Hood To Cowl Weatherstrip

Tools Needed:
Stright Screwdriver
Pliers or Vice Grips
Cut-Off Wheel

Time Frame
2 Hours

Image #1: The sealed beam type headlight, boring!

Image #2: To change the headlight, first the headlight bezel must be removed. The 1955 headlight bezel is held to the headlight bucket with two #6 counter sunk sheet metal screws located at 6:00 and 12:00 o' clock.

Image #3: There is a stainless steel trim ring that surrounds the headlight bulb that holds the bulb in place. On a 1955 there are three screws that hold the trim ring to the headlight sub bucket. This assembly is then secured to the bucket with the adjusters and spring. On the 1956 and 1957 cars, the headlight trim ringsnaps over the sub bucket and is held in place with one spring attached to the headlight bucket.

Image #4: To remove the headlight bulb, ring and sub bucket assembly, simply pull forward on the retaining spring that is hooked into the stainless ring and disengage the ring from the adjuster screws. If your retaining spring is hooked directly to the sub bucket, remove the three screws and the headlight bulb can be removed from the sub bucket.

Image #5: The Tri-BarH-4 halogen headlights are available with a clear, black, red or blue center dot. We are installing the PIN 28-67 headlights with the black dot. These will really give the front of our 1955 a super custom look versus the replacement sealed beam light bulbs. You can choose the color dot that you think will best complement your paint scheme.

Image #6: The body of the Tri-Bar headlight is made of high impact plastic and the H-4 halogen light bulb is replaceable from the rear. The rear of the Tri-Bar headlight bulb, where the wiring harness connects, is larger than a sealed beam headlight. The headlight sub bucket will need to be trimmed for the Tri-Bar headlight.

Image #7: The hole in the rear of the sub bucket measures 2-1/2". In order for the new Tri-Bar bulb to fit, it will need to be enlarged to 3-1/2". Using a cut-off wheel or jig saw, trim the rear lip of the sub bucket. Now the Tri-Bar headlight will fit the sub bucket perfectly.

Image #8: Install the sub bucket back into the headlight assembly and install the headlight and trim ring. The Tri-Bar halogen bulb will plug into the stock wiring harness. The headlight is marked "TOP", so when the headlight is installed the "TOP" mark should be at 12:00 o'clock. If you did not disturb the headlight adjuster screws, you shou ld not need to adjust the headlights. If your lights were out of adjustment, be sure to adjust them (at night using your garage door as a target works well) as needed.

Image #9: Last, install the headlight bezel. There is no comparison between the new Tri-Bar headlights and the replacement sealed beam headlights. The Tri-Bar headlights really give the front end of the car a custom look and will he lp you see better when driving at night!