Installing a New Intake Manifold

a new intake manifoldstrongbr strongTools:strong standard socket set, standard wrenches, flat-blade andor Phillips screwdriver, knife or scraper, torque wrenchbr strongTinware:strong aftermarket aluminum intake manifold, quality high intake gaskets, gasket sealer (silicone) strongemTip: Before final installation, double check the fit of your to make sure everything lines up and will work with your existing application.emstrongbr strongPerformance gains:strong a cooler, higher-flowing intake charge, and, aluminum manifolds typically result in about a 25 weight lossbr Swapping on an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold is one of the most engine upgrades of all time. Its easy, its cheap, and the bottom line is, it works! Not only does aluminum dissipate heat faster and more efficiently than cast iron, but it will also save you about 25 lbs. in dead weight! The new aftermarket manifolds have an improved design and will far outflow a factory cast-iron In fact, most are dyno-tested and to yield encouraging and torque increases throughout your entire Now how can you beat that for a couple hundred bucks? With any manifold swap, the first order of business is to remove all the attaching components such as the carburetor, distributor, and the thermostat and housing (note: be sure to fully drain the cooling system before disconnecting the upper radiator hose). Working in a criss-cross type fashion, loosen and remove all the bolts securing the manifold to the engine block. The number of bolts may vary depending on the size and make of your motor. Using a long screwdriver or bar, gently lift up on the edges of the manifold. A little leverage is all it should take to break the bond between the two You may need to unbolt the valve covers for adequate clearance and to keep from damaging them when the manifold up. Now its time for the cleanup. Before removing the old gaskets and silicone, lay a clean towel into the lifter valley to avoid any debris or contaminants from entering the motor. Use rags to up the intake in the cylinder heads as well. With a small knife or scraper, remove all old gasket material from the mating surfaces of the head and the block. Follow up by thoroughly wiping down the areas with any industrial type stripper or cleaner. This is a crucial step to ensure a lasting, leak-free seal. All bolt holes should be inspected and cleaned out with a tap if needed. a href"http:blog.rickscamaros.comwp-contentcorvetteuploads201411shot1.jpg"img class"alignnone size-full wp-image-1519" src"mediawp-contentrickscamarosuploads201411shot1.jpg" alt"shot1" "500" height"333" abr emTo bridge the gap between various intake gaskets, lay down a thick, even bead of sealer across the block. Dont go overboard here. If too much is applied, the excess may fall down inside the lifter valley when compressed.embr When installing, first lay a thin coat of gasket sealer to the backsides of the manifold gaskets and them on the cylinder heads. This will keep them from walking around and sliding out of when dropping the manifold into Using quality oil-resistant silicone, lay a thick bead of sealer across the front and back of the engine block. Most intake manifold gasket kits include formed rubber end seals for this However, they are terrible at sealing the manifold and should be immediately discarded. Be careful not to lay on too much silicone in any one area. When the manifold is installed and tightened down, the excess sealer can easily fall down inside the lifter valley and harden. Needless to say, this can lead to serious blockage and interference in the engine block. a href"mediawp-contentrickscamarosuploads201411shot2.jpg"img class"alignnone size-full wp-image-1520" src"mediawp-contentrickscamarosuploads201411shot2.jpg" alt"shot2" "500" height"333" abr emWith the intake gaskets slightly tacked in carefully lower the manifold into With the gaskets and sealer in carefully lower the manifold into Apply a fair amount of thread sealer to the intake bolts and snug them down by hand. Depending on manifold selection, it may be necessary to a longer set of mounting bolts. We recommend using ARPs line of stainless steel bolts and hardware for just about any job. They are strong, durable, and the finishing touch for any fresh engine rebuild. a href"mediawp-contentrickscamarosuploads201411shot3.jpg"img class"alignnone size-full wp-image-1521" src"mediawp-contentrickscamarosuploads201411shot3.jpg" alt"shot3" "500" height"333" abr emAll manifolds should be torqued down to manufacturers specs. Keep in mind this will change depending on the material used cast iron vs. aluminum.embr Last but definitely not least is the final tightening of the manifold bolts. Using a standard lbs-ft torque wrench, start at the center of the intake and work your to each end in a cross To warping or cracking the manifold, work in gradual steps with the torque wrench. For example, if your final torque specification is 20 lbs-ft, torque all of the bolts first to 10 lbs-ft, then 15 lbs-ft, and finally 20 lbs-ft. Its a good idea to check them once more after running the car and allowing the manifold to heat up.