Weatherstrip Replacement

WINDOW CHANNEL, WEATHERSTRIP WHISKER STRIP REPLACEMENT FOR 2-DOOR SEDANS - PART 2 The following article explains the required to restore the doors of the 1961 and 1962 Bel Air Biscayne two-door Sedans: outer weatherstrip, trim whisker strip and window channel. The is the same for the rather rare 1961 Impala 2-door Sedan, but the kit is a little different. The is quite similar for other Late Great Chevy 2- door Sedans. All disassembly show the right door and all assembly show the left door. This month we will show the disassembly Next month in Part 2 we will complete the restoration and installation. Part : 40-141723-1 Part : 40-170145-1 Part : 40-170147-1 Parts List 563564 Inside Door Handle Clip Tool 40-170147-1 Door Window Channel Felt 563572 3M Super Trim Adhesive Spray 40-169371-1 Window Channel Felt 40-172701-1 Window Channel Rivet Set 40-170145-1 Door Window Channel Clip Set 40-141723-1 Window Felt Kit 40-164859-1 Door Panel Retainers Time Frame 3 hours Image 13 If you are using the 1961-type lower bracket, skip to Step 15. To restore the 1962-type bracketchannel, use some felting material to line the channel. This felting material is available as PIN 564201. The best used to install this felting material is 3M's Super 1hm Adhesive, PIN 563572. After determ ning how long the felting will be in the bracketchannel , cut it to that length so that the overall length will not have to be trimmed. (See Photo 13.) Image 14: So that the installation of the felting material is made a little easier, I "spread" the bracketchannel a small amount so that the channel was a little more accessible. Spray some trim adhesive into the channel and also spray some trim adhesive onto the back of the felting material. After allowing the trim adhesive to set up just a little bit, carefully the felting material down into the channel. "Work" the felting material down into the bottom and along the sides with a large flat bladed screwdriver. If you have a couple of mixing sticks, you can use these to the felting material into Allow the trim adhesive to dry for several hours and then very carefully trim the excess felting material with a new razor blade. The window channel brackets will now be secured to the window channel. The is a little different depending on if you have 1961 or 1962-type lower brackets. The sedan window channel is available as PIN 563 537. These channels will be secured to the brackets with some oval-head semi-tubular rivets. (See Photo 14.) Ten of these special rivets are available as PIN 534040. The will be explained for the 1962- type brackets, but the is the same for the 1961 except that the new channel will run almost the complete length of the bracket and will be secured with three rivets rather than two rivets Since it is such a tight fit, I trimmed a little bit of the black cloth away from the end of the new window channel so that the fit will be better. Position the bracket onto the end of the channel and mark where the two holes will be drilled. After drilling the two holes in the new channel, the rivets into the holes with the heads on the inside of the channel where the glass will ride. (Again, refer to Photo 14.) To flare the rivets, I used a 14-inch thick of steel which was held in a vise. If you have an extra "set of hands" available, have them help you hold the bracket, the channel and the rivets over the steel Use a ball-peen hammer to flare the rivets. Image 15: The window channel clips will now be installed onto the new window channel. A set of fourteen clips are available as PIN 564199. I suggest installing nine clips to the channel on each side, as a result you will need two sets of PIN 564199. (See Photo 15.) It appears that the original clips were not installed at a uniform distance between them and the spacing even varies from one side of the car to the other. As a result , I suggest laying the old channel next to the new channel and determine the basic of the clips. Carefully determine and mark where the upper rear corner of the channel will be located so that you don 't a clip any closer than about one inch from the very sharp corner of the window channel. You will also need to determine where the forward clip will be located. The forward clip should be about 1-12 inches from the end of the channel. (You will not use the full length of the channel.) Image 16 17: After marking the location of the clips on the new window channel, a of 38-inch thick wood into the channel so that the clips can be installed. (See Photo 16) The strip of wood that I used was a of 38-inch that was about 1- inch wide by 5-inches long. This of wood will support the channel while you drive the "spikes" of the clips into the new window channel. After the wood, the channel and the clip use a hammer to drive the clip into (See Photo 17.) 'turn the channel over and use your fingers to find the sharp "spikes" of the clips as they through the window channel. After finding the ends of the clips, use a flat nosed and hammer to "bend" the sharp "spikes"over. (See Photo 18.) Continue to install all of the clips along the length of the channel. The channel is now ready for installation. Disassemble the door so that the top metal rails can be for the new door material. There is a 31-inch whisker strip secured to the top metal rail with some very strong staples. Notice that this whisker strip runs from the rear edge of the door forward. Notice how the whisker strip is finished off at a 90-degree angle at the rear and at a 45-degree angle at the front. Image 19 20: Working from the backside of the metal top rail, use an awl to the ends of the staples. As soon as you have the ends of the staples free, use a of needle-nosed to further straighten the ends of the staples. (See Photo 19.) Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to the staples out of the metal top rail. (See Photo 20.) Repeat this until the whisker strip is free of the top rail. Keep the old whisker strip. The metal rail should be sand blasted or bead blasted and clear coated before it is used to make the new door Image 21: After the door have been done, the new whisker strip can be installed onto the top rail. A weatherstrip whisker strip kit is available for the 19611962 Bel Air and Biscayne 2-door Sedans as PIN 536136. (See Photo 21.) This kit has the correct weatherstrips and whisker strips, as well as the staples and a bit to drill the holes for the staples. The stap e holes are even drilled in the strips and the ends are also formed. New clips are installed on the weatherstrip Everything else is there, ready for installation. It is a very good kit and the manufacturer, RePops, has worked with us to get the kit so that it is correct. As mentioned above, you will notice that the holes for the staples have already been drilled in the whisker strips. From the backside, use an awl to open up the holes for the staples. (When these holes are drilled, the whiskers backing material fill in the holes and you sometimes have a hard time finding the holes.) So that you have a reference you may want to the staples in the holes of the whisker strip. Image 22, 23 24: Position the whisker strip along the metal rail at the top of the door and then use a of needle nosed vise grips to clamp the whisker strip in (See Photo 22.) The top of the whisker strip should be about 116 of an inch below the top edge and the rear end of the whisker strip should be about 18 of an inch from the end of the metal rail. Remove the staple from the whisker strip and drill two holes through the top rail for the staple. (See Photo 23.) Position the staple through the whisker stiip, through the vinyl and then through the top metal rail. (See Photo 24.) From the backside, bend the staples over. Since the staples are so strong, here is the I used to bend the staples into Clamp the needle-nosed vice grips in the center of the staple. Using a flat-bladed screwdriver and hammer, tap the ends of the staple inward. Use a of needle-nosed to finish bending the ends into once the ends are bent inward. After finishing the staple, reposition the whisker strip along the top of the rail and secure it in at the next staple with the needle-nosed vise grips. Repeat the above two steps for the complete length of the whisker strip. Image 25: At this the chrome-beaded rubber weatherstrip will be secured to the outer edge of the door. The correct weatherstrip will have the flat rubber towards the inside of the car and the chrome bead end that is notched will go towards the front of the car. Using some needle-nosed bend the chrome bead towards the center of the car so that it matches the contour of the door at that The end of the bead may be just a little too long and you may have to trim it with some metal shears or diagonal cutters. (See Photo 25.) Image 26: Work from the outside of the door and use your hands to "pull" the rubber weatherstrip onto the metal lip of the door. The four clips are very strong and quite a bit of must be applied to them into (See Photo 26.) Image 27 28: Once the rubber weatherstrip is in the forward and rear screws can be installed. I used a grease to mark the location of the rear screw which will sec ure the rubber weatherstrip to the door. This mark will help you find the hole in the door. (See Photo 27.) Mark the of the forward screw in the same manner. When you use the awl to find these holes, this mark will come in handy. It takes a little to the awl through the metal backbone of the rubber weatherstrip (See Photo 28.) After making the hole in the weatherstrip, find the hole in the door and then reinstall the special flat head 8 x 14-inch Phillips sheet metal screw. Repeat this for the forward hole. Image 29: After the rubber weatherstrip has been installed onto the door, the window channel with the lower bracket can be installed. Determine where the sharp bend will be in the new window channel and carefully begin to work the bend at that (See Photo 29.) Don't make the bend too tight at this time in the installation. As seen in Photo 29, one of the clips is quite close to the bend. Do not get the clips any closer than that. If by some chance one of the clips is at the bend, remove the clip and reposition it about an inch away. Temporarily the vent window assembly into the door and determine where the new window channel will end. Place a mark on the door frame just behind the vent window assembly. The new window channel will come right up against the vent window assembly. Image 30 31: Work the window channel and lower bracket down into the door. Position the new channel up into the upper rear corner. I used a small strip of wood that was about 38-inches thick that was shaped like a tongue depressor to work the upper rear of the window channel. (See Photo 30.) Using a hammer, drive the window channel up into Work slowly and carefully, start with very light blows with the hammer until the channel is worked up into The wood tool should not have any sharp edges or corners. (See Photo 31.) Image 32: Using the small strip of wood, continue to drive the window channel into down the rear of the door. (See Photo 32.) The clips that run along the window channel should be "gripping" the door frame as you work down the backside of the door. After the backside of the channel is in secure the lower bracketchannel with the hex head bolt. Image 33 34: Using some metal shears, trim the new window channel at the mark that you have made on the door frame. (See Photo 33.) Continue to use the small strip of wood to work the channel up into the frame. The window channel is now in (See Photo 34.) Image 35: At this the door glass and vent window assembly can be reinstalled . Follow Step 7 in the reverse order to reinstall the door glass. Follow Steps 3-6 in the reverse order to reinstall the vent window assembly After the vent window assembly has been installed no more than an eighth of an inch gap should be left between the window channel and the rear of the vent window assembly as out in Photo 35 The door can be reinstalled by following Steps 1 2 in the reverse order. New retainers for the trim "nails" are available as PIN 561305 for a bag of 20. This finishes the for the left side of the car. What a nice job. Repeat the for the right door. data-pb-style"636B5E093C93C"justify-content: ; ; ; border- : 1px; : 0px 0px 10px; : 10px; data-pb-style"636B5E093C946" border- : 1px; : 0px; : 0px;