Transmission Removal and Replacement

Transmission removal and replacement Time: 4-5 hours Tools: standard socket set, standard wrenches, floor jack and jackstands, torque converter holding tool (optional), transmission jack (optional) Cost: varies depending on tools required or transmission selected Tinware: transmission fluid, transmission tailshaft new transmission mount (recommended) Tip: After removing the driveshaft from the rear of the transmission housing, install a stop over the tailshaft to avoid fluid from spilling out. Performance gains: Transmission trouble is never fun. Whether its for repair, rebuilding, or all-out racing, a finely-tuned transmission is a cornerstone of Release the transmission shifter linkage from the steering column. Depending on application, most of the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts can be accessed from the top of the vehicle. Loosen and remove the trans mount-to cross member support bolts (2 bolts). Transmission removal and replacement in any vehicle is always a delicate It requires time, open space, and of Located smack-dab between the engine and the rear drivetrain, the transmission and its various counterparts literally serve as the middle man in the forever-valuable transfer of Whether you manual domination or the creature comforts of an auto-pilot, the basic and operation of the transmission remain a constant. This goes for removing and installing as well. Although there are many modifications to be made on individual components, this narrows the focus on just getting the beast safely in and out of the car. Make no mistake, this is an involved There are many steps, but none of them are overly-complicated. Transmission Removal: Let's get started: You can make the swap as one complete assembly (engine included), or opt for the transmission alone. This is really just a matter of or necessity. Regardless, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable from its terminal Why leave any room for sudden surprises, right? Drain any fluids (i.e. coolant, engine oil, steering fluid, etc.) from the motor that may result in a spill during the At this its a good idea to start taking Not only will this help you during the re-installation it will look good in the scrapbook too! Disconnect any and all electrical connectors from the enginetransmission assembly. This may include the engine harness, the neutral-safety and back-up light switches (if applicable), and the throttle valve detent switch. Keep in mind the order and approach may vary slightly from one tranny to another, as GM and offered more than a handful of different designs over the years. Continue the disassembly by removing the air cleaner and the throttle linkage cable or rods. You want to create as much room as for easier access to other areas. Unbolt the shifter linkage at the steering column and remove any retaining clips (see 1). Floor shift cars will require the removal of the shifter boot and housing, the center console (if so equipped), and the shifter mechanism. On a 4-speed, disconnect the Z-bar rods and springs. Be careful, these may still be loaded under high spring And underneath the car: Now its time to turn your attention to the underside of the vehicle. Before going any further, safely raise and support the car using a floor jack and a sturdy of jackstands. You will need to loosen and remove the lower shifter andor clutch linkage from the side of the transmission case. Anything that may obstruct a clean removal must go. Keep track of and label all of your hardware, clips, and retainers. Again, will also help. This will make the reassembly a much smoother operation. The speedometer cable and the oil cooler lines (if applicable) should be next on the list. The speedometer cable will simply unthread from the case and slide right out. The cooler lines should be labeled for or return to removal, and tied back out of the way. Be for a little spillage when disconnecting the lines. On some models, it may be necessary to unbolt the exhaust (s) from the collector for added clearance. Sometimes its easier just to remove the whole system from the collector rearward, including the mufflers. This is especially true when crossover bars or X-pipes are implemented mid-way in the exhaust system. At the rear of the car, unbolt the U-joints and disengage the driveshaft from the transmission tailshaft. Pulling the transmission out and away from the back of the motor requires the torque converter to be loosened from the crankshaft flexplate. Start by removing the flywheeltorque converter cover at the front of the transmission. You should then have sufficient clearance to access the converter mounting bolts. Remove the converter from the and secure it to the body of the transmission. Be sure to mark the orientation of the torque converter in relation to the flexplate for reassembly. Support the transmission housing with a floor jack and remove the trans mount to-crossmember support bolts. Loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the frame and slide it towards the rear of the vehicle. With the engine supported as well, the transmission-to-enginebellhousing mounting bolts may now be removed. Manual transmissions may be with or without the bellhousing. The case is typically mounted to the housing by four bolts. With the transmission isolated, slowly slide the assembly rearward and lower to the ground. To install, realign the matchmarks and lubricate all bearings and shafts with clean engine oil. Raise the transmission with the floor jack and secure to the engine block. Reattach all components, linkage, and hardware using the manufacturers torque values. Refill the transmission case with fresh fluid if necessary. References on Transmission Removal Theres a great 12 minute video on youtube.com that covers the removal of a Muncie transmission on a 66 Pontiac GTO. Of course, this would also apply to any GM A-Body. In fact, the utilized will cover many GM vehicles from 1964 through the late 1970s. Check it out here: https:www.youtube.comwatch?v0mzg69kgKQI Muncie 4-speed transmission Having access to a lift makes the job that much easier.