1955-64 FRONTRUNNER INSTALATION
1955-64 FRONTRUNNER INSTALATION
Owning a modified Chevy can be both a blessing and a curse. You've customized your car the way you like it, but some of the parts don't work together the way they should. You enjoy showing your baby, but competition is stiff in the modified and custom classes. You love the looks of your Chevy, but not some of the outdated pieces under the hood. Whichever case is yousr, we'd like to introduce you to the Vintage Air Frontrunner System. This beautiful set of high-quality parts is engineered to work with one another and will give your car that something extra it's been missing.
Various 12-point Wrenches
Pulley Installation Tool
Image #1: This is our block before we began installing the Frontrunner system. You might as well replace the fuel pump, front main seal and timin g cover seal at this time. All of the bolt holes in the block should be thoroughly cleaned using the appropriate thread chaser or tap.
Image #2: First install the four long studs where the water pump will be mounted and slide on the water pump gaskets (Use sealer to help hold the gaskets to the block) The studs should protrude from the block 4-5/8".
Image #3: Prepare the water pump for installation by finding the "P" on the pu lley and laying that side on the water pump. Tighten down the 4-5/16" 12-point bolts that measure 1/2" long.
Image #4: Apply sealer to the outer face of the water pump gaskets and slide the water pump onto the four long studs; then slide four short spacers onto the long studs.
Image #5: Power Steering Pump BracketBolt on the power steering pump bracket using the 2- 3/8" 12 point bolts that are 2- 1/2" long. Slide the left upper hole on the bracket over the lower long stud of the water pump. Use the two long spacers behind the bottom of the bracket to space it out correctly from the block.
Image #6: Air Conditiong CompressorIt's not pictured, but prior to installation of the compressor the included in the kit must be mounted to the compressor. Slip the compressor Photo# 3: Prepare the water pump for installation by finding the "P" on the pulley and laying that side on the water pump. Tighten down the 4-5/16" 12-point bolts that measure 1/2" long. Photo # 4: Apply sealer to the outer face of the water pump gaskets and slide the water pump onto the four long studs; then slide four short spacers onto the long studs. into the passenger side of the main top bracket assembly, position the spacers and bolt in place using two 1/2" bolts that are 3-1/2" long and 2 washers.
Image #7-8: On the driver's side of the main top bracket assembly, position the top of the alternator for mounting. Bolt together using a 1/2" bolt that's 3" long and a washer. Include the small spacer as seen in (Photo 7). For the bottom of the alternator use the 9/16" bolt that's 3-3/4" long and the fine threaded nut with a washer. The completed main top bracket assembly will look like (Photo 8).
Image #9: Slide the main top bracket assembly over the 4 long studs and secure the alternator side with 2-7/16" 12 point nuts and washers
Image #10, 11, 12: Belt Tension Assembly - Start by tapping the pin into the hole on the idler bracket (Photo 10) . Then slide the disc with 5 holes onto the idler bracket placing the pin through the bottom hole, as we did for power steering, or the top hole if you have standard steering. (Photo 11). This will position the idler arm to work with the appropriate belt length given the application. Mate the spring housing pins into the two larger holes on the disc/bracket assembly and bolt together using the 11/16" bolt that's 3-1/2" long and a washer and nut. Slide two 3/8" 12-point bolts that are 4-3/4" long through the bottom of the bracket and slide the standouts into place (Photo 12).
Image #13: Belt Tension Installation: To mount the belt tensioner assembly to the block, slide the upper bracket holes over the long water pump studs, securing the bracket with two 7/16"12-point nuts and washers. The bottom two bolts will be lined up with the two holes in the block on the timing chain cover and can be tightened down at this point.
Image #14-15: Power Steering Pump Preparation: Next the pulley must be mounted onto the pump. If you don't already have one, you 'll need to rent a pulley installation tool from your local parts store (usually, they require a down payment and give you a full refund once the tool is returned). It is important for belt alignment to set the distance between the back of the pump and the back of the pulley to exactly 3.2".
Image #16: Snap on the fluid reservoir and the pump is ready to install. Bolt the pump to the pump bracket we installed earlier using two 1/2" bolts that are 3" long and two flat washers.
Image #17-18: Finishing Touches: To finish up, bolt the balancer pulley onto the balancer using three 3/8" 12 point bolts and the 5/8" bolt that is 3" long and the large hat washer (Photo 17) . Now that it is done, we have added the functionality of a serpentine belt system, a late model GM power steering pump, a new alternator and an efficient Sanden air-compressor. More exciting is that we have added tons of shine and show factor to our car with the chrome and billet aluminum accessories.
Image #19: Additional notes: Since there is no engine powered fan, you'll need to use an electric fan wired to "pull" the air through the radiator. The fan can either be wired directly to the ignition switch, or to a probe kit that acts like an external thermostat. If you use the probe kit, the fan must also be wired to come on when the NC is turned on.
You need to modify your thermostat to work with the reverse flow water pump. You do this by drilling three 3/16" holes around the rim of the existing thermostat (Diagram 1).